This year being the 50th anniversary of the Norwegian heavy water sabotage operations, and the majority of my skiing companions being of military background, the year’s ski tour goes across the Hardangervidda to Rjukan. I’m interested enough in the backstory to be looking forward to the talk we’ve been promised for the night at Rjukan, but mostly I’m just here for the great skiing, the stunning views, and the good company.

Day 1 – Finse to Kjeldebu. This photo above shows the Finse hut.
The guide said today would be 19 km but that later turned out to be measured as the crow flies, not as the human skis, so the real distance was 29 km. Which is a tough distance to do on the first day when we’re all still somewhat uncertain on our skis and finding our footing.

With a full pack, somewhere around 20 km my body usually starts sending me signals that “maybe now would be a good time to call it a day” and “this is kind of enough, isn’t it”. I start feeling my knees and maybe my hips, and noticing various muscles that I otherwise don’t think about. So when I started getting that feeling when we we still had a good 9 km to go, I got a bit concerned. Am I so out of shape? Nope, our estimates were just so far off.

The weather forecast for Finse today was horrible, when I checked even as late as yesterday evening. We were promised –10°C and strong winds. Instead we got a day of brilliant sunshine, just a few degrees below freezing, and almost no wind. Absolutely perfect skiing weather, and beautiful views.


Gentle descents through soft snow are lovely. In the gentlest slopes you want to follow the tracks of the skier in front of you, to get the best glide – the soft snow acts as a brake. If the slope is slightly steeper but not steep enough to require turns, everyone tends to make their own tracks in order to have the most control. And then towards the bottom we all converge again, and take off in a row like a bunch of ducklings.

This is us arriving at the unmanned Kjeldebu hut, buried in snow. As with many alpine huts, there is also no source of fresh water, apart from melting snow. A bucket packed full of snow melts down to maybe a quarter-bucket’s worth of water at best, so there were a lot of trips out to fetch more snow.












































