We continue to visit our favourite places in Estonia. Today: Otepää adventure park.

Adrian, having grown in both height and weight since last year, could join us on the ziplines for the first time. Bot Adrian and I were almost (but not 100%) sure that he would love them. He voiced his hesitation; I kept quiet about mine and told him that of course he would love it. Luckily, he did.

We feel quite at home here by now, having visited the park several times in the past. It’s almost becoming a bit boring, for me at least – the kids are more fond of traditions whereas I want more novelty. Perhaps we can find other such parks somewhere in Europe.



Taevaskoda, “Heaven’s hall”.

A layer of the sandstone cliff had collapsed some time in the past year, like it was sloughing off a layer of old skin. All the names and dates scratched into the cliff face were gone, as well as the lichens and other assorted things growing on it. The cliff looked unusually fresh and bright.

Of course people couldn’t just let it stay that way; new tags had already been carved into the sandstone.

Falling turned the sandstone into sand. Ordinary, yet not ordinary: pink, beige, pale yellow.


Before visiting Taevaskoda we stopped for a cooling swim at Kiidjärv. The kids mostly splashed; I chased a runaway beach ball across half the lake, as the wind drove it this way and that.



While Ingrid is playing computer games with her Estonian friends, Adrian and I walked to a playground. It was hot and we didn’t stay very long.


We’re in Tartu.

During our past summer trips, we’ve been staying in various short-term rental apartments. (I can recall six different ones at least, ranging from just about liveable to really nice.) This summer we got the chance to stay at my father’s apartment since he spends all summer at his cottage in the countryside anyway.

His apartment is literally across the street from my childhood home. From his balcony, I can look straight at the windows of the kitchen and children’s room where I lived for twelve years. Ground floor, far left, just above the two parked cars. Two rooms, kitchen, small bathroom and toilet. Estonian apartments all tend to have a toilet separate from the bathroom, both tiny, rather than one more spacious room for both.

We moved there when I was about two and a half, and I lived there until I was fifteen. One of my very earliest memories is from a visit to that building when it was nearly ready for moving in. I remember the concrete stairs in front of the building not being quite ready yet, or maybe there was a pit in front of them – I couldn’t climb up and had to be lifted up.

Much of it still looks the same on the outside, even though it’s probably all modern on the inside. The old leaky wooden windows have been replaced with modern aluminium ones. I remember the way our window frames were winter-proofed with masking tape.

There used to be grass and bushes in front of our windows instead of that little parking lot. There’s plenty more parking space just outside this photo that also used to be green back then, when not many people in the building had cars.


The great thing about staying here (apart from being free of charge!) is that one of my closest childhood friends still lives in that building. So the kids can just walk across the street to hang out with their friends, with no need for me to drive them anywhere.


On our way by ferry from Stockholm to Tallinn.


It’s time to take the ferry back home to Stockholm.

The drive from Tartu to Tallinn is over two hours, but with all the extras, we need to leave Tartu around 6 hours before the ferry leaves.

Car check-in closes an hour before departure, and we want to be checked in at least half an hour before that deadline. Half an hour to navigate through Tallinn. Leave about an hour for lunch somewhere. And a five-hour project with a very strict deadline (we really, really don’t want to miss the ferry, after all!) needs at least an hour of extra slack for unexpected eventualities, such as a cycle race we once ran into just outside Tallinn.

Normally, though, we arrive in Tallinn with that extra slack hour unspent, and spend it in Kadriorg park in Tallinn. The park is so close to the ferry terminal that we can be reasonably sure there won’t be any major surprises there. Today it was pouring down so an hour at the park was not an appealing option. We ended up spending the hour in the parking lot of the ferry terminal.


Adrian’s turn to feel bored.


Ingrid feeling bored and twiddling with her plaits.


Adrian with his best friend Artur. Adrian totally adores him. Artur is all he talks about when we go to Estonia.

Artur is 10 years older than him and infinitely patient. They play Legos together; they go on merry-go-rounds together; they play Kingdom Rush together; they steal cookies from the kitchen for each other.


Tartu’s “Hansa days” festival. The activities were fewer this year compared to when we last visited; the market appears to be the main thing now. So we browsed the market and bought some nice things, as well as craft bread and craft ice cream. The area we enjoyed the most was around the old observatory, where the kids did some rocketry-related crafts and we helped/watched a scientist build and fuel and launch a rocket. (It was very loud and very fast.)

The kids topped off the day with bungee cord trampoline jumping. Ingrid learned how to do backflips. I was miffed that I was wearing a skirt and couldn’t give it a try.