Stensdalen to Vålådalen, 14 km.
I slept unusually well this night. Usually I go to bed early when I’m hiking because I’m tired in the evening and there’s nothing much to do in the hut, and then I wake at six. Today I slept all the way until seven.
As I stepped onto the terrace outside the Stensdalen hut in the morning, I noticed that a mountain had disappeared. Yesterday evening there was a mountain there. This morning the mountain was gone from view, hidden in a thick layer of mist. (This is the same view as in the last photo in yesterday’s post.)
Some of the hikers were grumbling about the mist and how there wouldn’t be any views from the trail today. Apparently the first half of the trail from here to Vålådalen, which is what I’ll be walking today, is supposed to have the most beautiful views in this area. Personally I’m just happy to not get rained upon all day! A bit of mist is fine with me. It isn’t even windy today.
I realized this morning that I never took a photo of the Tvärån yesterday at the spot where I couldn’t cross it. I was too busy not crossing it. As luck would have it, I crossed another river this morning that was very similar in size and character and overall feel. This one had a solid steel bridge across it. It rather makes sense when you look at that river, doesn’t it? This is not a river that makes you think that a bridge would be an unnecessary luxury and people can just wade across.
The weather was wet and cold and the morning mist hung around for along time. I could guess where those ordinarily beautiful views might be, but the visibility was really limited. But this was a very beautiful walk, despite and also because of the mist. Everything was muffled and quiet.
Here’s me enjoying a midmorning cup of hot blackcurrant cordial and a view of the mist, which was just beginning to lift at around this time, eleven o’clock or thereabouts. If you’re wondering why it looks like I’m walking without a rucksack, it’s because the rucksack was acting as camera support for this self-portrait.
Once the mist disappeared, the air was very crisp and clear and I could finally get some macro photos. The other days weren’t macro-friendly at all, with all the rain and wind.
This is bog blueberry or bog bilberry (odon) which is a common shrub in the mountains hereabouts. Bog bilberry is what gives the alpine heaths much of their soft red colour. Dwarf birch is more of a fiery orange-red while alpine bearberry (ripbär) adds purplish-red accents here and there.
The path today went steadily downhill. Around midday the open heaths and alpine birch forest ended and I was in spruce forest.
The paths were very muddy and wet nearly everywhere and there were wide boggy patches to either splash through, or to cross by hopping from tussock to tussock. The plank paths were again in very bad shape and missing entirely in places that really needed them.
As I walked further, I started recognizing familiar places – I was reaching parts of the trail that I’ve walked on my previous trips here but in the other direction. I was also nearing civilization and seeing more people on the trail than during the past few days.
I didn’t miss civilization at all yet. Since I had a margin of several hours before the bus would leave and only two more kilometres to walk, I stopped for a long lunch break next to a beautiful lake. It wasn’t exactly warm but at least not freezing cold. And there was still no rain!